A Simple Guide to Interfacing Fabric

Do you ever wonder why some clothes hold their shape so perfectly? The secret might be what’s hidden inside. Interfacing fabric is a special material that gets attached to the wrong side of your main fabric to give it more structure and support.

This guide will help you learn about interfacing fabric and choose the right one for your project.

What Is Interfacing Fabric?

Interfacing fabric is a special material you use on the “wrong” side (the inside) of your sewing projects. It’s like the unsung hero of the sewing world that makes your creations look more professional.

When you need to add firmness, shape, or structure to a project, interfacing is your go-to solution. Think of it as a support system for your fabric.

Types of Interfacing Fabric

Interfacing comes in many varieties to suit different sewing projects. Each type has specific properties that can add structure, stability, or shape to your fabric.

Fusible Interfacing

Fusible interfacing has a heat-activated adhesive on one side that bonds to fabric when ironed. It’s the most popular choice for home sewers because it’s quick and easy to apply.

The convenience factor makes it a favorite for most projects. Fusible interfacing is ideal for beginners since it stays in place during sewing.

Sew-In Interfacing

Sew-in interfacing doesn’t have adhesive. Instead, you baste it to your fabric or catch it in seams. It requires more work but offers advantages in certain situations.

Sew-in options work well for heirloom sewing, couture techniques, and projects where you want the most natural result possible. The extra time spent basting pays off in the superior finish of your garment.

Woven Interfacing

Woven interfacing has a grain line just like regular fabric. This means it stretches slightly in one direction (bias) but remains stable in others.

It’s ideal for dress shirts, collars, cuffs, and waistbands where you want structure but some natural movement.

One advantage of woven interfacing is that it doesn’t change the drape of your fabric as dramatically as non-woven types.

Non-Woven Interfacing

Non-woven interfacing is perfect for beginners due to its versatility and ease of use. Non-woven interfacing is made by bonding fibers together rather than weaving them.

It has no grain and stretches equally in all directions. This makes it super easy to work with since you don’t need to worry about grain lines when cutting. It works well for crafts, bags, and home decor projects.

Knit Interfacing

Knit interfacing stretches just like knit fabrics do. This makes it perfect for stabilizing stretchy garments without losing their stretch properties.

The biggest advantage of knit interfacing is maintaining stretch while adding stability. Use it for necklines, hems, and shoulder seams in knit garments to prevent stretching out of shape.

Tricot Interfacing

Tricot interfacing is a specialized knit interfacing with excellent recovery properties. It’s lightweight, soft, and retains a natural drape in your finished projects.

This type works wonderfully for lingerie, lightweight knits, and sheer fabrics. Tricot provides stability without adding bulk or changing the hand of delicate fabrics.

Warp-Insert Interfacing

Warp-insert interfacing combines non-woven interfacing with added stabilizing threads in the warp (lengthwise) direction. This creates stability in one direction while allowing some give in the other.

This specialized interfacing is perfect for waistbands, necklines, and anywhere you need to prevent stretching in one direction only. It’s often used in tailoring to create shape without stiffness.

Weft-Insertion Interfacing

Interfacing that includes additional weft threads to enhance its stability and support. It is similar to warp-insert interfacing but focuses on the weft direction. It is used in garments and accessories that require a balanced support structure.

Embroidery Interfacing

Interfacing specifically designed for embroidery projects. It provides a stable base for the embroidery stitches, ensuring that the fabric does not pucker or stretch during the embroidery process. It is available in both fusible and sew-in varieties.

Common Uses for Interfacing Fabric

Interfacing fabric helps add structure and stability to various sewing projects. When applied correctly, it transforms flimsy fabrics into sturdy, professional-looking finished items.

How to Choose the Right Interfacing?

Picking the perfect interfacing for your project impacts both how your finished piece looks and how well it holds up over time. The right choice depends on what fabric you’re using and what you want the final product to achieve.

1. Fabric Type

When matching interfacing to your fabric, consider how the materials work together. The interfacing should have similar properties to your fabric.

Some common fabric interfacing materials include:

Organza: A sheer, lightweight fabric that provides crispness and structure without adding bulk, ideal for delicate fabrics and applications like collars and cuffs.

Canvas: A heavy-duty, plain-woven fabric that offers significant structure and durability, suitable for heavier garments and accessories like jackets and bags.

Cotton: A versatile, soft interfacing material that provides gentle support and stability, often used for light to medium-weight fabrics and applications requiring a natural feel.

Polyester: A durable, synthetic interfacing material available in various forms (woven, non-woven) and weights, offering good stability and resistance to stretching, suitable for a wide range of applications.

2. Fabric Weight

The weight of your interfacing should complement your fabric. A good rule is to choose interfacing with similar or lighter weight than your fabric. This prevents the interfacing from dominating your project.

Lightweight fabrics (like organza or lightweight cotton):

• Use featherweight or lightweight interfacing
• Provides gentle support without changing drape

Medium-weight fabrics (like quilting cotton or linen):

• Choose medium-weight interfacing
• Adds structure while maintaining fabric character

Heavy fabrics (like denim or upholstery fabric):

• Select firm or heavyweight interfacing
• Provides substantial support for structured areas

You should never use heavier interfacing than your fabric as it will create an unnatural stiffness.

3. Applications

Different project areas need different types of interfacing to achieve the right support and shape.

Try these combinations:

• Button-down shirt collars: crisp woven interfacing
• T-shirt necklines: lightweight knit interfacing
• Bag handles: heavyweight fusible interfacing
• Soft blazer lapels: hair canvas (traditional tailoring) or medium-weight woven

Tips for Using Interfacing Fabric

Always test your interfacing on a scrap piece of your fabric first. This helps you check if it’s the right weight and if it applies properly without bubbles or wrinkles.

For delicate fabrics, place a pressing cloth between your iron and the fabric. This protects your fabric from direct heat while still allowing the interfacing to fuse properly.

Cut your interfacing slightly smaller than your fabric pieces. This helps avoid any sticky residue getting on your iron or ironing board.

Press rather than slide your iron to prevent the interfacing from shifting around.

Hold the iron in place for about 10-15 seconds before moving to the next spot.

Store unused interfacing flat or rolled – never fold it!

Where to Buy Interfacing Fabric

The fabric interfacing material is widely available both in physical stores and through online retailers. You can find different types including fusible and sew-in varieties, in various weights and compositions to suit your specific project needs.

Online shopping gives you access to a wider variety of interfacing options. For bulk purchases, check out Sinocomfort, where you can buy a selection of fabrics.